THE AUSTRALIAN GEMMOLOGIST | A Delightful Pendant Suite
A Delightful Pendant Suite
Figure 1. White gold pendant with five inserts. Inserts in top row,
L to R: garnet, peridot, tanzanite. Bottom row, L to R: multicoloured natural sapphires and irradiated natural diamonds; cluster setting with central diamond and pink diamond surround.
A lovely piece of jewellery came across the desk recently; something that can truly be worn with any coloured outfit that would be complemented by a pendant. Shown in Figure 1, this pendant comprises six pieces. The pendant itself has two parts: a 40cm necklet of 14ct white gold chain with squared belcher links and a parrot clasp; and a circular, scrolled piece, also of white gold (18ct), that adds 2cm to the overall length of the pendant. This scrolled piece is encrusted with 60 round, brilliant cut diamonds, each of which would weigh 0.02ct to 0.03ct.
What makes this pendant of particular interest is the ability to insert coloured stones into the centre of the scrolled circlet. Figure 2 shows the back of the circlet and the hand-fitted, hinged frame which forms a cage to hold one of the five inserts. The inserts (Figure 1) each have six spokes or ‘arms’ which are held by the frame when it is closed. The inserts are composed of lovely stones. The first is almandine garnet, the second is a peridot, and the third is a tanzanite. All three stones are round faceted, with a diameter of 8mm and weighing approximately 2.0ct. A matched set, one might say, although not to be all worn at once!
The other two inserts are multi-stone. One is a multicoloured insert that contains four, round faceted, natural-coloured sapphires, together with 21 small, brilliant cut natural diamonds irradiated to create pastel colours of pink, blue, green and yellow. These stones vary in size from around 0.005ct to 0.06ct, and all are multi-claw set.
The final insert is a cluster of diamonds, all round and brilliant cut. The central diamond is GIA certified, D colour, VS2, and weighs 0.31ct (Figure 3). It is also set in a white gold, star-shaped mount and surrounded by six diamonds in triangular, petal-like mounts. The surrounding diamonds have a pink colour, and while apparently of Argyle origin, that could not be confirmed without un-setting the stones, testing, and resetting. The possibility of damage during this process precluded further testing. Well-known diamond expert and industry consultant, John Chapman, explains how the Argyle provenance can be tested at https://www.jewelleryworld.net.au/2020/09/03/argyle-diamond-provenance/.
Needless to say, this was a bespoke piece that was created by collaboration between a jeweller and a client as a gift for his wife. I think she would have been very happy!
Figure 2. Back view of circular scrolled piece of pendant showing hinged cage to hold the inserts.
Figure 3. Close-up of white and pink diamond cluster insert.
Acknowledgement
The author wishes to thank Léonie Rennie for her great assistance in getting this article to print.
All photos courtesy of the author.
